Following a recent visit to Premiere Vision in Paris, textiles and trends specialist Fiona Chautard reports on how fashion is changing and how colour can be used within a collection to inspire change.
Following a recent visit to Premiere Vision in September to see the launch of the new colour palette for Autumn Winter 2019/20, I was struck by how transient the colours looked compared to previous years with a blend of colours which would suit any season from Autumn to Summer. The palette which is produced by a jury of international colour experts, demonstrated the new season-neutral approach to dressing. Trends are now more about a quiet evolution gently morphing from one delivery into the next, rather than any radical style revolution.
Could this ‘new’ season-less approach be a reflection of the current debate (and UK government enquiry) concerning the effects of Fast Fashion on the environment? The never-ending conveyor belt of Womenswear and Menswear runway shows, and the growth of 24/7 influencer street-style websites have surprisingly, resulted in a fashion ‘slow-down’.
It now appears to be less about changing direction season after season, and more about knowing your customer and channelling feedback from your customer to evolve your current best-sellers, while still including emerging, slow-burn looks into the mix.
The mood of the moment can be seen in the latest colour directions from Premiere Vision in Paris, which offered an optimistic mood full of energised brights and new colour combinations.
The palettes of the season deliver a new self-assured level of colour designed to empower the wearer. In a world of so much bland and unchallenging fashion, the use of colour and unusual colour mixing is an essential element to a new style of dressing.
(AW 19/20 Pantone referenced palette by WGSN: Further trend information and access to WGSN is available via Textiles Scotland Membership)
Following on from Spring / Summer, the purple palette remains on the fashion radar and is key for the season including tones at both the blue and red end of the scale. It was a constant trend on the latest round of runways with designers promoting Pantone’s Colour of the Year – Ultra Violet across a wide spectrum of product.
Picking up on the renewed interest in neutrals and mid-tones, brown becomes a fashion colour for A/W 19/20. Classic tan browns take on a warmer intense look for next winter with the emphasis on rich cognac tones. A real Autumnal level of colour with a rich, red-cast palette inspired by the force of nature. Think warm chestnut or leafy russet shades with an intense luxe appeal.
Continued interest in full-bodied wine tones is an ongoing, evolving trend with proven success over the last few seasons, including a rich medley of wine and Bordeaux reds.
Greens balance the season’s ongoing mood for rich wine tones with the opposing look offering shades from deep and dense forest greens, including leaf and mossy tones, with acid lime adding shock value. Forest calm and respite in a chaotic world.
The blues remain the ‘Go-to’ colours of the season including navy, turquoise and washed out denim hues.
New uplifting yellows have the true feel-good factor. They are warm, intense, energising and full of commercial appeal. Tones of saffron, egg-yolk and marigold work well as stand-alone main shades and also look directional when teamed with the classic warm caramel brown tones of the season.
In the Pink:
A fashion highlight which is gaining traction as the march towards the season progresses. High voltage shocking pink has become a key component in an amplified brights palette for both womens and menswear. Inspired by 1980’s power dressing, these hot saturated pinks, from bubblegum to Neon, add impact to a palette by clashing these shocking pinks with bright poppy red in bold colour blocks.
Metallics continue to shine this season with silver and pale gold the metals of choice.
Visiting Premiere Vision in September, I was aware of just how diverse and international the textile production and customer base is, with the need across the globe for colour to lift and inspire. With any new collection, colour has the power to offer both excitement and comfort in our increasingly chaotic world.
The essence of the new season’s colours is less about hiding behind the quiet anonymity of black or characterless neutrals, it’s about expressing yourself assertively, and the choice of colours certainly reflect this mood of transformation and diversity.
About the author, Fiona Chautard.
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